Our billet side covers have been very popular and difficult to keep in stock over the last few years, thanks to their unique features and design. While some core features have remained the same, the billet side cover has gone through four versions to further meet our customers' wants and needs.
What are the core features of the EC Billet Side Covers?
Standard Crankshaft Bearings – Our billet side covers use a standard all-metal crankshaft bearing which allows for a very low-cost replacement bearing that can be found virtually anywhere that handles small engine parts. ARC Racing offers an excellent side cover, which has been the industry standard for over a decade; however, they machine two bearings and fit them side by side to provide more surface area to distribute the forces and pressures from the crankshaft. It makes it more difficult to replace bearings and service your side cover. In many cases, having two rows of bearings is unnecessary. However, we offer a double roller bearing that fits the standard bearing journal for both the stock and our billet side covers, should it be needed. Once again, this is a relatively inexpensive upgrade and a serviceable option for our billet side covers.
Camshaft Bearing – Most side covers operate on aluminum journals or bronze bushings. You'll need to replace the side cover when the aluminum wears out. The bronze bushing is serviceable and performs better than aluminum in most situations. However, yellow metals like bronze can experience additional wear from certain engine oils, especially assembly greases with high levels of extreme pressure (EP) additives.
We used a steel bearing similar to the crankshaft bearing to enhance durability and reduce friction. While the camshaft still rides on aluminum journals in the block, we have designed and developed our billet blocks to include cam bearings as well.
Oil Sump Capacity – ARC Racing and other manufacturers have designed their side covers with a flat inside surface, likely to reduce machining time or for aesthetic reasons. However, this design choice reduces the overall oil capacity of the oil sump. In contrast, stock side covers are cast with a more open interior, and most manuals recommend maintaining an oil level of 14-16 ounces.
Reducing the sump capacity raises the oil level in the engine, which increases windage and can diminish engine power. Additionally, it may lead to more oil being expelled through the breather or PCV into the catch can. While running with less oil is possible, this comes with its consequences. Engine oil is crucial for lubricating the moving parts of the engine. It also serves as a heat sink for air-cooled engines, and maintaining proper oil levels ensures better cooling and lubrication, which can enhance engine performance and longevity.
We chose to maintain a greater volume in the engine's sump without increasing windage, thereby improving lubrication and cooling.
Studs Mounting Capabilities – Another feature that sets the EC Billet Side apart from other billet side covers is the option to use stud kits. Studs offer improved clamping and holding force compared to bolts, helping resolve issues related to stock side covers coming loose, making studs a sensible choice for high-performance engine builds.
These have been the core features of the EC Billet Side Cover across all its different versions.
What's the difference between the four versions of the EC Billet Side Covers?
Version 1 – The original side cover featured only one oil fill located at the top, with no additional oil fill points or dipsticks. To enhance functionality, we have added a pulse fitting for those who require a pulse signal for their fuel pumps, which can also be routed to the valve cover for oil circulation. This setup helps balance the crankcase pressure between the engine's top and bottom ends. Additionally, we included a Pressure Control Valve, similar to what we have used in many billet side covers for the Briggs Flathead.
The first generation of the side cover did not include any oil fill or dipstick options. This design choice aimed to create an aesthetically simple and compact part.
However, this was a challenge for users who preferred checking their oil level using a dipstick rather than directly measuring the engine's oil. Moreover, the top oil fill was often difficult to access for some kart racers due to the heat shield mounted on the side cover.
Version 2 – The second version of the side cover resembled the ARC billet side cover more closely, with the oil fill relocated to the front of the engine. This change made it easier for kart racers to refill the oil. However, many users complained that the new side cover was incompatible with electric start engines due to the starter mechanism. We didn't initially anticipate that billet side covers would be used for engines with on-board starters, as it seemed unnecessary for those setups. Nevertheless, many people appreciate the appearance and quality of the billet side covers for their builds.
Version 3 – We have relocated the top oil fill hole to the top and added a bottom oil fill along with a front dipstick, making it function like a stock side cover for better fit and convenience. Additionally, we have begun anodizing the oil fill caps and dipstick to prevent them from sticking in the side covers, which is a common frustration with all billet side covers.
Version 4 – We decided to simplify the side cover by removing the pressure control valve and the rear oil fill hole. The pressure control valve was removed because many users found it confusing where or how to route it, which should always lead to a catch-can vented to the atmosphere. Additionally, the ½-inch tubing does not fit many common karting catch cans. We also did not anticipate that some people would use these side covers on engines with stock fuel tanks, which would cause issues with the PCV located on top of the side cover. Instead, the 280 PCV can be screwed into the top oil fill hole if a PCV is needed for your side cover. However, the best practice is installing the PCV at the highest point in the crankcase, the valve cover, another reason for its removal.
We also eliminated the rear oil fill because most users were not utilizing it. Accessing it on a racing go-kart is difficult, and the oil fill has always been positioned on the top of the side cover. This rear oil fill is nearly impossible to access on a mini bike, especially with CVT and jackshaft setups. We prefer to keep the billet side cover as simple as possible because we believe it looks better.
Like many of our components, they are designed to improve the performance and durability of your engine. We continuously make improvements to refine the product and address our customers' needs and wants. We offer a 7-bolt version that can be used with the Wildcat 223cc and 240cc engines. Additionally, we are working on 7-bolt and 10-bolt big block side covers for the near future.
It is important to understand how to correctly install the stud kit when using the billet side cover. The billet side cover is highly precise, making the fitment tighter than stock covers and other billet options. Because of this, the installation of the studs is crucial for proper fitment.
Consider the following examples to provide some contextual information on hardware and fitting parts.
When you insert a bolt into any hole on a block, you might not notice it, but the bolt can move back and forth initially. This movement decreases as you thread the bolt in, but it continues until the bolt bottoms out against the block or the part it is securing.
If you've researched honing engines, you're likely aware that doing it properly requires a deck plate to simulate the cylinder head and the proper engine hardware. This method is because the cylinder head and hardware distort the block; the hardware pulls the deck upward and twists the aluminum around the sleeve or bore. This setup allows you to hone closer to the block's running condition. Without a deck plate, the bore may measure correctly with the head off but can tighten or misalign when the head is bolted on, increasing frictional losses.
A similar situation occurs with the side cover. If the studs are installed without the side cover in place, they lack proper positioning and can rock back and forth until they bottom out, as discussed in the previous examples. Additionally, they can distort and twist within the block. When you attempt to install the side cover with the studs already in place, it may seem like it isn't machined correctly and will be difficult to install.
To avoid this problem, follow these steps: Have your side cover ready for installation, ensuring the dowels are in place in the block. Next, position the side cover so that it is flush against the block, with the dowels aligned with the cover. The side cover acts as a deck plate for honing and a guide for the studs. Apply some red thread locker, and using our 8mm stud installation tool, install all the studs and torque them to specification. The 8mm stud tool makes it easy to unfasten from the stud, preventing it from backing out of the threads. You can now remove the side cover if necessary. The side cover should come off and go back on relatively easily, much more so than if you had installed the studs first. Finally, fasten the side cover with the nuts for the studs, and you're ready to run.
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